The Rhinogs, 21st-23rd August 2009 (222m)

Friday 21st

We left T's house at 6-ish, not sure where we were heading for! We discussed an overnight at Cae Ddu, maybe Dinas Mawddwy but in the event kept going. T remembered a carpark for the Roman Steps walk in the Rhinogs, north of Barmouth, so we decided to head there. We ignored Tomtom (as you do!) and ended up on a very narrow, very steep, very overgrown, very twisty (5-point turn hairpins!), very gated (good exercise for K!), very dark, very spooky lane. We eventually arrived at the carpark to find that half a dozen others had had the same sleepover idea. There were a couple of woodfires twinkling, we found a spot next to a stream, had a glass of red and hit the sack.

Saturday 22nd

Awoke to a beautiful morning and a gorgeous site with a stream, trees and surrounded by mountains. (One of the beauties of arriving in the dark is the lovely surprise you inevitably experience when you awake in the light). We had a leisurely breakfast, washed our teeth in the stream and paid a very chatty man £7 for the overnight stay.

We headed off up toward the Roman Steps, crossing paths with a party of lads who were looking for a fork in the track - unsuccessfully! They eventually headed off across rough ground and vanished.

We reached the top of the Steps and struck off left to a weird shaped double cairn for our sandwiches and water.

After messing about for a while taking photos we decided to carry on to the main peak, Rhinog Fawr. A pleasant walk up to a small lake and a view of an accident waiting to happen in the form of a group in jeans and sandals climbing a very steep, loose, gully.

We took the decision not to go to the top but to wend our way down via another lake described as 'stunning' in the guide. We saw the group again, on their way down, lost and spread over the hill. T directed a couple of them down but we heard later that the mountain rescue team had had to find one of them on the far side of the hill.

We struggled a little on a heather-covered boulder field, K in particular finding the descent uncomfortable, but eventually found a lovely vantage point above the lake with views out to sea in the distance and the sound of a rushing stream from way beneath us. We dallied, regaining our breath and equilibrium after the dodgy descent and then followed a simple path down to The Rosabella after 7 hours on the hill.

We swilled off the trail dust and changed out of our 'uphill' clothes. K put on a long dress and make-up and lit candles while T found some soft music to accompany our very improvised dinner of pasta and chillie tomato sauce. It was a wonderful end to a great day.

Sunday 23rd

Took ages to wake up for a change - even T was dozy instead of the usual instant switch-on. Enjoyed no 1 breakfast and were collared by head keeper for our site fee - this time we let him engage us in conversation - only for half an hour!

We carried on up to Alan and Norma's, in Rhos-on-Sea, for a nice lunch and then home via Betws-y-Coed, where K, with next winter's adventures in mind, topped up her supply of base layers. Arrived home 7ish after a good weekend.


View Rhinog Fawr in a larger map